Spotlight On: Daniela Groza

Spotlight On: Daniela Groza

Daniela Groza graduated from Edinburgh College of Art in 2020 with a degree in jewellery and silversmithing. Daniela’s work features a range of techniques, from bold and sculptural pieces made using Computer Aided Technology to the use of Japanese Mokume-gane to blend and laminate different metal alloys to create marbled surfaces. Daniela is committed to sustainability in her practice, from the use of natural materials to recycled precious metals, and more. We caught up with Daniela to learn more about her work and career in her first year since graduation.

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Making things with my hands has always been my passion. I would spend hours after school making beaded wire jewellery for my friends and family. I realised designing jewellery brought me more joy than anything else and so I decided to consider it as a potential career path. I started investigating jewellery design courses at degree level and, after I discovered Edinburgh, I became captivated with the city and its history. 

During an open day at Edinburgh College of Art, I was able to look through student sketchbooks and I was fascinated by the creativity of the students and the teaching quality. I also discovered that the University of Edinburgh is in the top 20 universities in the world and with the high entry requirements I decided to challenge myself and push my limits to ensure I could get a place. 

Why did you decide to follow this career path?

Originally from Romania, I have been fortunate with the opportunity to spend my summers in San Diego, California as a child, visiting my aunt and uncle. I started making jewellery using wire and beadwork when I was 12 after discovering these techniques during summer camp there. I instantly became passionate about it and started taking classes, which inspired me to create designs that I began selling. Ever since, I have always known this is the career path I would like to follow. In my senior year of high school, I started researching universities offering jewellery degrees and was surprised to find numerous ones all over the world. I was especially drawn to Edinburgh due to its reputation and the beauty of the city.

Through studying Jewellery & Silversmithing at Edinburgh College of Art, my love for this craft only grew stronger, my dedication to this profession proving once again that this is the career path for me.

 

Mokume-gane Necklaces and Rings, made of recycled silver, recycled yellow gold and recycled red gold

Can you tell us what you are doing in your career right now and what you are currently working on?

Since graduation in May 2020, I have been developing my practice as a jeweller, alongside doing a master’s in design informatics at the University of Edinburgh. I chose this degree because I really see potential in combining jewellery design with technology in the future.

I am also a graduate in residence at The Precious Metals Workshop in Leith, run by goldsmith Ian Nicholson, where I have had a studio since September. The access to the workshop has been limited, only two people at a time allowed in due to COVID-19 restrictions but I have worked on developing my designs as much as possible. I have been working on the design for the Precious Metal Grant awarded to me by the Goldsmith's and the pair of earrings are in the process of being completed using 18ct recycled red gold.

I have also been recently commissioned two main items that were part of my graduate collection, which I am currently developing as well.

I had the chance to be featured in Elle UK magazine, sponsored by Fashioncrossover London, in the 2021 May issue. I entered and won an online competition and was one of the finalists selected to feature.

 

Mokume-gane Necklace and Rings, made of recycled silver, recycled yellow gold and recycled red gold

Where do you draw inspiration from in your work?

I am very engaged with global issues, jewellery for me being more than just aesthetics. Through my pieces, I speak about diversity and inclusion, illustrating the beauty of imperfection within one’s body shape and pigment. This is done through a series of deconstructed limbs pieces together in unusual ways and the use of mixed metals with the focus of creating jewellery that match all skin tones. The Mokume-gane also cherishes bodily imperfections. My jewellery allows wearers to express themselves, adorning their bodies with creations inspired by matters close to their heart.

The use of ethical materials is an important part of the work, all pieces being made from recycled metal such as reclaimed gold family heirlooms. The pieces aim to teach customers about conscious shopping choices and draw attention to the women miners at the beginning of the supply chains.

How would you describe your design style?

The style is edgy yet elegant due to the nature of the materials used, but also playful and quirky. Elements used create bold ready to wear statements designed for the high-end fashion jewellery industry.

What is next for you this year?

I have been awarded a scholarship for the GIA in London to do their graduate gemmologist course starting in October and therefore I will be moving to London for this. I believe this kind of specialisation will help my brand gain more credibility and reputation. Ethics play an important part in my work and I want to help reshape the mindsets of individuals from the diamond industry by introducing fresh ideas that have sustainable practices at their core.

 

Mokume-gane Necklace and Rings, made of recycled silver, recycled yellow gold and recycled red gold
Feature in Elle UK magazine sponsored by Fashioncrossover London

Keep up with Daniela on Instagram @danielagrozajewellery or visit www.danielagrozajewellery.com.

Eda Obermanns